If you are impressed with the squadrons of seafood swimming or snoozing in tanks facing the Bowery, wait until you enter the arcade, find #28, and sit down in New Malaysia. One of New York’s original Malaysian restaurants, New Malaysia entertains patrons with full-color pictures of its signature dishes projected on a TV monitor in the dining room. These rather mod surroundings attract a sprinkling of westerners who are delighted to enjoy a meal here. On TV as well as the plate, deepfried whole red snapper is a hit. Options are spicy shrimp-based belacan sauce or milder soysourced jawa sauce. Both work beautifully.