The popular “mama” food born of Malay and Chinese marriages is now showcased in one of Chinatown’s most contemporary, even hip, settings. Nyonya, in the heart of Manhattan’s Asian center, moved across Grand Street from its prior location and dressed up for the occasion. It is big and deep with exposed brick walls, indirect lighting, beamed ceiling, dark wood furniture and an imposing mural on the rear wall. Much admired and reviewed, Nyonya’s menu sparkles with chicken feet, fish heads and scores of exotic seafood, noodle and rice items. But the handsdown favorites remain the dipping attractions – Roti Canai and satays – and Hainanese Chicken.